When the City Softens, Zagreb Begins to Reveal Itsel
It was in the middle of a heatwave that I first discovered Croatia. Before arriving, I had heard the familiar stereotypes: that Croatians could be reserved, distant, perhaps even cold. As a French woman, I know very well how stubborn stereotypes can be. Yet after almost two weeks here, I can say with confidence that this was far from my experience. Despite my hesitant “hvala”, my few Croatian words pronounced with a very French accent, and my many awkward moments, I have been welcomed with genuine kindness. Croatians seem to appreciate even the smallest effort to speak their language, however imperfectly. They do not hesitate to help when someone is looking for directions. I can personally confirm this, as I have already managed to get lost more than once.
Zagreb welcomes visitors, students and travellers from all over the world every year. For some, the Croatian capital is a brief stopover before continuing to Slovenia, Hungary or other destinations in the region. For others, it quickly becomes a city where time slows down, where daily rituals matter, and where the most memorable discoveries often happen quietly. Perhaps it was this feeling of trust, warmth and curiosity that made me want to explore Zagreb even under pouring rain. In the end, there may be no better way to discover a city than when it shows its more intimate side.
The Memories of Šestine
With Rihanna’s “Umbrella” playing over and over in my head, light rain touching my face and the air finally softened after days of intense heat, I suddenly understand how refreshing a rainy day in Zagreb can feel.
As if I had stepped into a film, I slow down in front of a souvenir shop. My eyes are immediately drawn to a bright red object hanging near the entrance: an umbrella. A funny coincidence, perhaps, but in Zagreb, even coincidences often come with a story. This is not just any umbrella. The Šestine umbrella is one of the most beloved symbols of Zagreb.
Recognisable by its vivid red colour, multicoloured folk patterns and elegant chestnut wood handle, it recalls the famous parasols of Dolac Market and carries with it a sense of old Zagreb charm. Often presented as a diplomatic gift, it was famously given to Margaret Thatcher, a small but striking emblem of Croatian heritage.
What I love most, however, is not only its appearance, but the romantic symbolism surrounding it. According to a local legend, a young couple once took shelter under a black umbrella during a heavy downpour. Their love was so strong that the umbrella turned red, becoming a reflection of their passion.
It is the kind of story that makes a souvenir feel less like an object and more like a keepsake. The Šestine umbrella brightens rainy days, but it also carries something tender and deeply local: a little piece of Zagreb to take home.
Between Shopping, Squares and Living Heritage
After walking south, I find myself on Ban Jelačić Square, the beating heart of Zagreb. This is where everything seems to begin. Locals meet here, visitors arrange to gather here, trams pass by, and the rhythm of the city gathers around one elegant urban stage. For fashion lovers like me, the surrounding streets are dangerously tempting. Fashion, accessories, shoes, small boutiques and familiar brands fill the city centre, making it difficult not to pause in front of the shop windows.
But Ban Jelačić Square is not only about shopping. Around one hundred metres long and entirely pedestrianised, it has the grace of a true Central European square. Colourful façades surround it, the Manduševac Fountain brings a touch of legend and freshness to its centre, while the monumental equestrian statue of Josip Jelačić, former Ban of Croatia, has watched over the city since the 19th century.
Looking up, you notice the layers of Zagreb’s story. Some buildings have been beautifully restored; others are still surrounded by scaffolding. The historic centre continues to bear the marks of the powerful earthquake that struck Zagreb in March 2020. Yet the renovation work also speaks of something important: the city’s determination to protect its architectural heritage and restore its former beauty.
There is a particular elegance in this kind of imperfection. Zagreb does not pretend to be polished in every corner. It is living, healing, changing — and perhaps that is part of its charm.
A Traditional and Gourmet Break Is a Must
All this walking eventually awakens the appetite. Or perhaps it is simply impossible to resist the scents drifting through Zagreb’s streets. Either way, I find myself at the Food Truck Festival, held on Josip Juraj Strossmayer Square, one of those leafy urban spaces where the city feels both relaxed and stylish.
Croatia hosts many festivals throughout the year, and this one is a small paradise for food lovers. Burgers, sushi, crêpes and street food from different culinary traditions create a cheerful, cosmopolitan atmosphere. Unfortunately for me, and fortunately for my waistline, I do not find burek there. This Balkan classic comes in many versions: with cheese, meat, spinach or other fillings. Simple, generous and comforting, burek is one of those specialities that wins you over from the very first bite.
To end my meal on a sweet note, I head toward one of the many bakeries in the capital. Zagreb’s bakeries are full of tempting pastries and offer a delicious introduction to Croatian everyday flavours. As a devoted chocolate lover, I choose mađarica, a traditional cake made of thin layers of pastry and chocolate cream. It is delicate, rich and wonderfully nostalgic. The perfect ending to a gourmet break in the Croatian capital.
A Nature Escape in Maksimir Park
Since sunshine comes after the rain, it feels like the perfect moment to escape into nature. And I believe I have already found my favourite place in Zagreb: Maksimir Park.
Sitting on a bench with a takeaway coffee in my hand, almost like a true Croatian — because coffee here is not simply a drink, but a social institution — I begin to observe the world around me. Birds are singing. Branches move gently in the wind. Children laugh as they play. Dogs run after ducks with comic seriousness. Everything seems to come together in a quiet symphony of nature. Maksimir Park is not just a green space. It is a place of life. Families, students, runners, cyclists, elderly couples and dog lovers all share the same landscape. And yes, dog lovers will be delighted here: Croatians seem to have a genuine affection for their four-legged companions.
Some people follow the paths by bike or go running. Others, a little lazier like me, simply enjoy the sunshine, talk with friends, drink coffee slowly or rest without guilt. In Maksimir, doing very little suddenly feels like exactly the right thing to do.
The Beginning of a Zagreb Story
The first evening lights begin to appear. It is time for me to catch the train back to Sesvete, a neighbourhood a little further from the city centre. I also discover that public transport sometimes requires patience, especially when you do not yet know the city very well. And so my first day in Zagreb comes to an end. It was intense, imperfect, surprising and unexpectedly tender. I arrived curious, slightly lost and still adjusting to the rhythm of a new country. I ended the day with rain on my face, chocolate on my mind, the memory of a red umbrella, and the quiet feeling that Zagreb had only just begun to reveal itself.
For a first walk in the rain, it felt like the beginning of a beautiful Croatian adventure.
